I always wanted to visit Vietnam, but it took Vietjet’s strong marketing and affordable tickets to get me to actually head to Hanoi, the capital of the beautiful country. 

The cheap yet delectable street food, history filled with war and triumph, stunning emerald waters and islands, and one of the best coffees made for a quintessential experience. 

After finalising the dates, I set out for the most tedious process for an Indian passport holder – the visa!

Visa

Indians have to take a prior e-visa through their official portal. Fortunately, the process is effortless and the website has clear instructions. 

Official Vietnam government portal for e-visa: https://evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn/trang-chu-ttdt.

Several websites offer e-visa services but the above link is the only government website that issues the travel document. It takes anywhere between 2 days and a week to obtain the permit, so it is advisable to apply well in advance. I lost 2 travel days as I miscalculated the days and the visa came late.

History

Hanoi, the capital and second-largest city in Vietnam, is a contemporary metropolis. The city has a lengthy past dating back several centuries. It was the administrative centre of the government for the Âu Lạc nation and served as its capital since the third century BCE. Hanoi was also the capital during the Han dynasty, and it remained the seat of power for succeeding kingdoms until 1802 when the Nguyen dynasty transferred it to Hue. The city once more became the centre of French colonial power until 1945, and its influence is visible in the architecture, infrastructure, and food.

Location

The city is located in the Red River Delta, around 60 miles from the coast. 

Accessibility

Hanoi is well-connected and has two airports – one international and one domestic. Several public transport buses ply from the airports to various districts of Hanoi. The city also has a good railway and roadway network.   

Stay

The capital city has a range of stay options, from luxurious brands to backpacker dorms. The most popular area for budget travellers is the Old Quarter area, with cheap hostels, plenty of street food carts and drinking joints for a respite in the heat. We stayed at two hostels during the journey. Here is a short review of City Backpackers and Hanoi Buffalo

City Backpackers, Old Quarter, Hanoi

The hostel is popular on Booking.com, and we trusted the reviews and booked two beds in a mixed dorm. The location is perfect, right in the Old Quarter area, with many bars, restaurants and shopping in the vicinity. It is also within walking distance from Hoan Kiem lake, which is a popular local as well as a tourist spot. The hostel offers a limited basic breakfast of toast, fruit and coffee. They also have free walking tours and trips to Halong Bay and other areas (you can find cheaper fares elsewhere).

Though it ticked all the boxes, we experienced a harrowing time with the hostel. Our first night and the following day in Vietnam were marred, as all our money and a portable charger were gone. My friend was robbed in the middle of the night while she was fast asleep. The money from her wallet was stolen, and the wallet was thrown in the bathroom sink (we suspect a dorm mate was behind the theft). 

The hostel authorities agreed to help us only after we were assertive and demanded action. They took us to a nearby police station which is supposed to be for tourists, but the cop spoke zero English. One of the female authorities from the hostel translated our ordeal to the policeman, but he didn’t seem to understand the gravity of our situation. We were not even for 24 hours in a foreign country where locals spoke little English without a dime. Thankfully, our passports were intact. We spent a few hours in the police station trying to explain everything to the only cop. We filed a written complaint but knew it was worthless – we’re not getting the money back, at all. 

Note: There are no locks on the doors of the dorm, at least our room did not have a lock. It seemed odd, considering most hostels now have proper keycards for safety. Also, our bathroom plumbing wasn’t up to the mark and made screeching noises every time people flushed – which was a lot.  

Location: 55 P. Bát Sứ, Hàng Bồ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam

Hanoi Buffalo Hostel, Old Quarter, Hanoi

After a mortifying stay at City Backpackers, we opted to stay at Hanoi Buffalo after we returned from Hoi An. The biggest plus was that the doors had electronic keycards, especially after the nightmare at City Backpackers.  

The hostel felt a lot safer and was within walking distance of all attractions in the historic quarter. It is a few metres away from Beer street, one of the most happening areas of the quarter.

Unfortunately, our dorm had a shared bathroom, which was supremely unhygienic and super tiny, even for a mid-sized person like me. (Americans, please do not flush toilet paper in Asian bathrooms. Our drainage lines cannot take it). Fortunately, a private room was available, and we grabbed it. Ensure you book a dorm with an ensuite bathroom to avoid hassles. 

The hostel has a good unlimited breakfast spread and free beer hour every day. As our room was on the top floor, we got a bird’s-eye view of the city below. 

Location: 44 P. Hàng Giầy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam

What To Do In Hanoi

There is absolutely no dearth of activities and sites in Hanoi. The tourist areas of the city can be covered easily in 3 days. If you’re looking to take it slow and soak in the eclectic vibe, Hanoi has a plethora of options on offer.

Hop-On Hop-Off Bus

The easiest and fastest way to explore the city is to grab a seat on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus, which travels to several historic, tourist and architectural attractions. The bus departs from Hoan Kiem lake, and one can book a seat on the spot at the counter. 

There are two options for passengers – the flexible ticket allows you to disembark at the stop of your choice and board another bus as per the schedule, while with the other ticket, passengers have to complete the entire round of the tour and cannot board the bus again after getting off.

The flexible ticket, obviously, is priced higher than the other. The `non-flexible ticket option is suitable for those on a tight schedule or budget.

• Temple of Literature: The Temple of Literature was built as a temple for Confucius. It is also Vietnam’s first university. The temple has an ancient, traditional architectural style reflecting the glory of the then capital. It is a beautiful green oasis in the middle of the city, and one can easily spend a couple of hours strolling through and admiring the various structures and artefacts in the huge complex.
  Location: 58 P. Quốc Tử Giám, Văn Miếu, Đống Đa, Hà Nội

• The National Museum Of Vietnamese History: Located in the French Quarter, the museum does an excellent job of extensively detailing Vietnamese history, with over 2,00,000 exhibits on display. The museum building is a sight in itself, with a blend of French as well as traditional Vietnamese architecture.
  Location: 216 Đ. Trần Quang Khải, Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội

• Vietnamese Women’s Museum: An unusual exhibition, the Vietnamese Women’s Museum was established to recognise the role of women in the development of the country. It also aims to promote gender equality and women empowerment. The museum displays artefacts related to women’s fashion, home and history through the years.
  Location: 36 P. Lý Thường Kiệt, Hàng Bài, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội

• Military History Museum: War aficionados are in for a treat, with the Military History Museum exhibiting captured or destroyed military equipment, weapons and tanks from the wars fought with the French and the Americans.
  Location: 8A Điện Biên Phủ, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội

• Hanoi Opera House: The French colonial administration built a stunning opera house in central Hanoi modelled on the Palais Garnier in Paris in 1901. The opera house was constructed to provide entertainment to the French and their families stationed in Vietnam. It opened its doors for concerts on December 9, 1911, and since then, has been a centre for cultural and political events in the country. The Hanoi Opera House is considered one of the architectural landmarks in the city.
  Location: 1 Tràng Tiền, Phan Chu Trinh, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội,

• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: The mausoleum was built in 1975 and serves as the resting place of Vietnam’s first president, Ho Chi Minh. The memorial is built at the exact location where Ho Chi Minh read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. The mausoleum is inspired by Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin’s tomb in Moscow but integrates Vietnamese style and architecture.
  Location: 8 Hùng Vương, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội

• St. Joseph’s Cathedral: One of the first structures built by the French colonial administration in Vietnam, St Joseph’s Cathedral is the oldest church in Hanoi. Construction began in 1884 and was completed by 1886. The cathedral is named after Joseph, the patron saint of Vietnam. The structure resembles Notre Dame in Paris, and locals and tourists frequent it for its architecture. 
  Location: 2RHX+FHX, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội

• Imperial Citadel of Thang Long: The citadel is a UNESCO heritage site with several historic structures on its premises. It was built in the 11th century by the Ly Viet Dynasty on the remains of a Chinese fortress dating from the 7th century. In 1945, the Japanese army used the entire area to jail over 4,000 French soldiers.

Some of the structures in the citadel worth a visit are:

Hanoi Flag Tower
Đoan Môn
Kinh Thiên Palace 
Rear Palace (Hậu Lâu) 
North Gate (Cửa Bắc, or Bắc Môn) 
Building D67 and bunker

Location: 19C Hoàng Diệu, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội

Cafe Hopping

Vietnamese culture revolves around coffee and they are proud of it. Given that the nation is the world’s second-largest exporter of coffee, why wouldn’t they? There are lots of cute, quirky, theme-based, and cozy cafés lining the streets of Hanoi. (The artsy cafes are sure to turn your Instagram feed look vibrant and envious).

There are many different beans available for a freshly ground coffee. The inviting aroma is intoxicating and very difficult to miss.
Taking a seat in one of the cafes with a street view and watching people go by is the ideal way to experience the essence of Hanoi.

Explore Old Quarter

Innumerable shops selling designer clothes, traditional crafts, street food, and touristy trinkets line the Old Quarter area. We spent considerable time simply roaming around on foot and exploring the ‘ancient’ neighbourhood of Hanoi. The Hoan Kiem Lake is the most charming feature of the region, drawing both locals and tourists.

Attend A Concert  

We were lucky to be in Hanoi on a weekend as the entire area near Hoan Kiem lake was turned into a walking plaza. There were games, music, dance and a concert! Although it was a Vietnamese band playing, we thoroughly enjoyed the music, lights and the electric vibe.

Shopping

Shopping in Hanoi is a treat with cheap as well as high-end stores and international brands making a mark. The touristy areas are lined with several shops selling traditional and western wear, souvenirs, trinkets and everyday items.

The weekend market near Hoan Kiem lake is the best place to pick up keepsakes and gifts for people back home.

Where to Eat in Hanoi

Vietnam offers a unique culinary experience. Foodies will love the different flavors, fresh ingredients (vegetables, meats, and shellfish), and distinctive palette.

In our short stay, we managed to visit a few joints, and revisited them too 😉

Bahn Mi 25 – The iconic Bahm Mi place is situated in the heart of Old Quarter offers . The tiny place is constantly buzzing with patrons wanting to grab a bite of the popular dish. Our cravings for this iconic place did not end in just one visit, so we gorged on the food here a couple of times!

King Roti – This sweet bun available in a variety of fillings is a perfect mid-meal snack or dessert. The buns are freshly made and absolutely delicious.

Bun Cha Ta Hanoi – Although vegetarian food is available throughout Hanoi, it can be a daunting task to find it as the food options can be limited. Our efforts to search for a decent restaurant serving veg food led us to Bun Cha Ta Hanoi. A small place but packed with a lot of flavour and warmth. The local food, recommended by our server, was fresh and scrumptious.

Street Food – Hanoi has an amazing street food scene with the entire Old Quarter area turning into a long, never-ending restaurant once all shops shut for the day.

Häagen-Dazs – Okay, so this place has a special mention because ever since their store in my city shut down, I have been craving for their ice creams. And what better way than to order their platter 😀

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